The pearl of the Vologne: treasure of the Dukes of Lorraine

For almost four centuries (from the 15th to the 19th century), freshwater pearls from the rivers of the Vosges (particularly the Vologne) contributed to the wealth and renown of the Duchy of Lorraine. Intensively exploited, these pearls gradually disappeared. 

In this post, we talk about malacology (the study of molluscs!), their economic importance and the reasons for their extinction.

Origin and formation of the Vologne pearls

Freshwater pearls are produced by bivalve molluscs, notably the pearl mussel (Margaritifera Margaritifera). When a parasite penetrates the shell, the mussel reacts by coating the intruder with nacre (calcium carbonate), forming a pearl. This natural process is now imitated in the cultured pearl industry.

Pearls from the Vologne, as well as those from the Neuné and Barba rivers, were particularly prized for their variety of colours: milky white, pink, violet, grey, blue and reddish.

Pearl mining and its historical importance

1.       Pearl mining in the Vologne dates back to the 13th century.

The first written mention appears on a map of Lorraine dating from 1513, with the Latin inscription "In hoc flumine reperiuntur margaritae" ("Pearls are found in this river"). Over the centuries, pearls became a symbol of wealth and prestige for the Dukes of Lorraine.

Historical references show that these pearls were given to sovereigns and used to make jewellery for the nobility. Renée de Bourbon-Montpensier, Catherine de Médicis and MarieThérèse of France are said to have owned jewellery adorned with Vologne pearls.
 

2.     Fishing conditions and regulations

From the 17th century onwards, pearl mussel fishing was regulated. The Dukes of Lorraine granted fishing rights, and pearl guards were responsible for monitoring and preserving mussel populations. Some documents from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries describe in detail these fishing practices and the associated taxes.

The pearls were generally harvested between June and July. Half the revenue from this fishery went to the duchies of Lorraine and the church of Remiremont. However, from the 18th century onwards, sources report that pearls were becoming increasingly scarce due to overfishing.
 

3.     Decline and extinction of the Vologne pearls

In the 19th century, several factors contributed to the disappearance of pearl mussels:

•         Overfishing and excessive exploitation, leading to a reduction in mussel populations,
•         Industrial pollution, particularly from the paper and textile industries, which has altered the quality of the water,
•         Disappearance of host fish (such as fario trout) essential to the mullet's life cycle.

By the end of the 19th century, the pearls in the Vologne had almost completely disappeared. In 1892, Le Figaro reported that "pearls once abounded in the Vologne but have almost completely disappeared".

The legacy and memory of the Vologne pearls 

1.       The pearls were sung by poets 

In 1702, Jean-Claude Sommier, the parish priest of Champ, is said to have written verses on the subject of Vosges pearls:

"The Vologne, above all, the true Ganges of the Voge

Draws praise and praise from the Prior / He sees pearls and gold being formed

there Found in her bosom, shining on board."

Philippe Antoine Chainel, lord of Château-sur-Perle (a feudal manor once located on a small mountain between Docelles and Cheniménil), wrote a heroic poem in which Venus wanted to leave the young girls of the Vôge a souvenir of her journey:

"On the green sitting in the shade of a bocage,

Venus saw the Vologne and wanted to bathe in it

The water was clear and showed her bosom.

She enters and, flailing about like an eel,

She gives birth to a fœtus covered in a shell.

The waves carried away this original seed

as fixed on the point in the middle of the channel.

But Venus having received life

To nature's will the oyster was enslaved 

Along the river, too, you'll soon see

From his offspring a very large deposit.

But on opening the oyster, the fisherman finds

A pearl with beautiful water and a sparkling watch.

The gallant jeweller shapes his finery

A woman's favourite in town and in the courts".

2.     A lasting cultural and historical imprint

Archives and old accounts attest to the importance of these pearls in the fashion and adornment of the Duchesses of Lorraine. Some sources mention that Joséphine de Beauharnais tried to introduce Vosges mules into the basins at Malmaison, but without success.

Attempts at preservation and current status 

Today, the pearl mussel is a protected species in France. It is listed in the Bern Convention (1979) and is classified as an endangered species by the IUCN. Since 2012, a national action plan has aimed to restore its populations in certain French rivers.

In Lorraine, a census carried out in 2007 counted only three live mules in a 15 km stretch of the Neuné, confirming their virtual extinction.

Long before we put the ALM logo on the professional clothing we make, our very first brand "Perle de Vologne", in reference to the pearl that adorned the wedding dresses made by Madame Ongania!

We invite you to discover our region for its heritage: through the ecological trail of the pearls of the Vologne (near Gérardmer), the place called Château-sur-Perle (reminiscent of the former stronghold of Duke Ferry III) or by discovering the collection of 186 pearls (kept at the Muséum-Aquarium in Nancy). We also recommend the magnificent documentary made by Hippolyte Burkhart-Uhlen ("Les perles de la Vologne"). 

Would you like to develop meaningful professional clothing? Contact our sales teams today to create items inspired by our local identity.